Electrical Fire

Ahh Crap, working on the Blue Vespa and must have had a short in the electrical system, reconnected battery and went to fire it up. There is the dreaded smoke -- one of the wires has burnt along the entire harness. Looks like I'll need to replace the entire thing :/ Shitty Deal

The Wire that burnt was the black one connected to where the Zener Diode is on the red bike.. I guess I know for sure if it is needed or not now. I could see smoke from the wire under the seat then run up to the front of the bikes column. Oddly I noticed they have on the red bike a 20 Amp Fuse and on the blue bike was a 30 Amp Fuse. I suspect this isn't the first time this has happened to this bike, it will probably need a new 12V stator as well which I have read is usually the cause of this sort of thing

Red Vespa Update

Update:

Finished installing the Red Vespa Signal lights a few days ago - been working since. they seem to work perfectly .. I have also installed the new signal switch.

Compliments of my neighbor who is a professional autobody worker I have had the damage to the side cowling fixed. Dents are out, sanded and repainted - it looks great!

Wiring- several of the wires were in rought shape - to save some coin I have been pathcing it up to the best of my ability



So whats next? well as it stands I still have several issues

Front Brake is a bit loose - should be an easy fix

Shifting doesn't seem to be consistant - just got a new crucifix and will attempt to play with the gear selector above this is an issue on both bikes

Red Tail Light - Probably need to find a replacement part for the red bike- the origional spring disintigrated when I took a look at it so I have been looking for an easy solution .. you would think just buy a spring adjust it and off you go but it's proving to be a royal pain ..

Red Brake Light isn't working yet .. I still need to do some trouble shooting but is suspect it will be in the brake switch or the ground - I have read that they are a normally closed switch which is a bit on the backwards side but Ill have to take a look

Grease - Still need to Grease all the Zerk Fittings & lube the cables (mental note still need to look into a cable lubricator)

Seats - need some form of seat protector .. my book is says use Armor All but I have had issues with it building up a layer on my car interiors in the past and actually causing cracking. thus need to do some more homework on that one

Breaker Points - need to check the Gaps on these still they should be 0.3 to 0.5 mm (.011 to .019 inches)

Voltage Regulator - I picked up a couple voltage regulators for the vespas - I would liek to replace the zener diodes on the bike. Only catch is Im not sure exactly where I will install them -- Still working on this one

Tuff City Motor Sports - the switch

the signal switch from the red Vespa wiring was completely broken on an earlier inspection - I think when we put it in the truck it must have been severed off .. I tried to solder up the connections on the switch today but had now luck at all .. so I took a trip over to one of the local motorcycle shops called Tuff City Power Sports - Nanaimo and out of sheer luck they had the exact switch I needed and also the proper connector for it (which I didn't have int he first place. After chatting for a bit about their Vespa Sprint we did a trade - a switch for some extra brake shoes and the difference in credit if it works . Very cool so I'm giving them my two thumbs up & a plug for there shop today!

Here is there contact info:

And here is the new switch :) today I also picked up some $5 Enclosed LED lights from Canadian Tire which are now working as rear signal lights :) ahh progress I love it!

On that note they mentioned they had converted the points to an electric start system -- might be a future project :)

12 Volt Vespa Regulators have arrived

Zener Diode used as a Heat Sink

 

 

 

 

 

 

12V Regulator 05 20 1146

Haven't had a lot of time outside of work as of late but on the positive side I have started to receive some of my replacement parts. The latest today - new regulators to replace the above Zener diodes which I am told will burnout on a  regular basis. I had special ordered these ones from india since they were specific for the 12V VLB Vespa and i wasn't sure if I could simply replace them with another AC regulator.. Bulletwala seemed ok but they sent via DHL and I found the shipping prices a bit too high compared to some of the other places in Asia.

Mystery Electrical Part

I have no idea that purpose this serves -- I'm still tracing lines but it has bee removed completely from the blue bike and is still intact in the red bike

Update & Solution

Mystery is Solved - This is called a Zener Diode or a Heat Sink - the problem is that bulbs will blow from the current variations, so they put this in to regulate the voltage- what I have read is that these do not last long at all - at roughly $30 each they recommend a Voltage regulator instead. Of course my Electrical was previously converted to a 12V system so I will have to source out a part - but the normal regualtor would have been a 6 Volt 12 Amp Voltage Regulator. Another Term for the Voltage regulator is "Clipper Diode"

The root of the problem is a Faulty Coil that is spitting out too much juice - Ill have to see if this becomes a problem later

Gear Selector Box Maintenance

Gear Selector Box Work The Vespa gearbox has not changed in a very, very long time so this information should be helpful to most every Vespa owner. The Selector box rarely needs attention; however, it is an integral part of the transmission and can break down just like any other moving part. The box selects the current gear by pulling a rod back (you can see this rod in the cruciform replacement area) and forth through the transmission. if this box fails, you will be unable to select gears until the problem is fixed. Below I will outline some procedures for inspecting and setting the gear selector box.
REF http://vespamaintenance.com/engine/select/

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Setting the Cables
One of the more tricky cable installations on a Vespa would have to be the gear selector cables. if the cables do not appear to be broken, but the shifting is weird or not working, carefully inspect the gearbox for damage (namely the selector arm as they may snap, there are more details on this below). I have found a fairly good way to approach this task. You will need a 7 and an 8 mm spanner, two pairs of Visegrips (one needlenose preferrably), a set of cables and a friend to help. If only one cable is broken, I find it easier to just start fresh and do both cables while I'm at it. There is a single screw at the bottom of the flywheel that hold the selector box cover onto the engine. Undo this screw and pull the cover aside to reveal the Selector Box Parts. Tighten the slack adjusters so they protrude into the selector box.

Once you are into the gearbox begin by undoing the cable nipples using two small spanners. Pull the nipples clear of the box and set them aside. To replace the cables on a P series you will have to open the headset. To open the headset, undo the 4 screws on the bottom of the headset and lift it as much as you can without yanking on it. push the speedometer cable (large cable right near the front wheel) toward the rear of the bike and the headset cover will pop straight up. you should now be able to see the inside of the headset. Apply a peice of duct tape to the speedometer cable, just below the locking ring (the thing attached to the speedometer under the headset). Unscrew the locking ring and allow it to rest on the duct tape (that way it won't fall into the fork tube). The headset will still be retained by wires. you can usually flip the headset back and work unimpeded, but if you know where everything goes, you may choose to unhook all of the little wires. There is a disc on the inside of the headset attached to the end of the gear selector handlebar. there should be two cables in this disc. These cables are the gear selector cables and they run down to the gear box. To renew these cables, carefully prise them from their seating in the disc and pull the cable straight out. Once one cable is out, replace it by feeding it down the same outer cable and then move onto the next, so they don't get out of order at the gearbox. Once both cables are seated in the disc, set the handlebar so the dots line up. Don't bother closing the headset yet.


Go back down to the gearbox. Have a friend hold the handlebar so the dots line up. Begin by pushing the nipples onto the cables. Grab both cables with a Visegrips and pull on them fairly hard. While they're tight, get your friend to move the handlebar up and down. This will quickly take up all the slack in the cables. Once you're done taking up slack, get your friend to set it back to the two dots. Turn the batwing to neutral by hand while gently rolling the bike back and forth. Neutral can be identified as a raised area between 1st (closest to the engine) and 2nd on the batwing (the bike will roll smoothly when in neutral. Get the needlenose visegrips and push the nose of the pliers up against the cable nipple as hard as possible while still pulling on the cable with the other set of Visegrips. The nipple should slide into the batwing slot. Once it's firmly pressed into the slot, clamp the needlenose visegrips onto the cable so that they continue to press into the back of the nipple. Tighten the nipple using the wrenches. Do the same procedure for the other cable.
The cables should now be set. The acid test is to roll the bike back and forth about 1m each direction and try to change gears. If the bike makes it to first and fourth gear, you're done. If it doesn't, try the whole prodecure again until it is right. You shouldn't have to use the slack adjusters. Once you finish, reassemble the headset by reversing the order of disassembly. Once you're good at this procedure, it takes about 15 minutes. At first it will take hours of cursing and hate - so be patient. Usually when you're about to give up, it suddenly works.


Inspecting and repairing the Selector Arm
The selector arm is a small cast piece of metal that forms the physical connection to the gear selector rod inside the engine. Since this part is under a lot of stress it may be vulnerable to cracking off due to lack of gearbox oil, sudden stress from the selector rod (usually from jumping out of gear) and bad casting. A key sign that this may be a problem is if the handlebar moves far past 1st gear without engaging a gear. If you notice this behaviour kill the engine and undo the 11mm bolts that hold the gearbox to the engine. gently pull the gearbox clear of the engine (there is a paper gasket between the selector box and the engine case). If indeed the selector arm has broken and you are in the middle of no where, try to find some brass or aluminum wire and make multiple wraps around the selector arm and ratchet shaft as an emergency repair. Shift as little as possible and try to get safely home. The selector arm usually snaps at the ring around the ratchet shaft and it can only be repaired only by ordering a whole new part. If you have a worn cruciform that jumps out of gear, you are at risk for this piece snapping off.




When ordering new parts, request a selector arm and a new tapered pin, as the pin is likely to be difficult to refit. you will need a ballpeine hammer and a small punch suited to the size of the hole. You may also need a reamer (taper tool) suitable to the size of the hole. Start by removing the cabling and get the box into a well lit area. On a wooden surface, tap out the pin as per the top picture. It will fall out completely with only a small bit of force. Crank the selector arm far past the fourth gear position as in the diagram. with the pin removed, slowly pull up on the batwing and place the new ratchet arm on the shaft. Line up the holes and punch the new pin back into place as shown in the bottom diagram. The pin should go all the way in. If it stops, adjust the position of the selector arm on the ratchet shaft and try again. If you cannot get it in, use a small reamer to redefine the taper on the new part. Once you have reamed the hole a small amount, refit the pin and try to bang it in. keep adjusting the taper until it will allow the pin to fit snugly in the hole. Once you are done, refit the selctor box and cabling (see above for instructions). Drain and fill your gearbox and replace the gasket if neccessary.

Ratchet System Troubleshooting
The ratchet system should rarely need attention but problems can arise if the spring is deformed or the roller pops out of the ratchet arm. To remedy this problem, simply order new parts and replace the old ones. The ratchet arm is held in by a small flat headed screw. Uncrew the screw carefully and catch the spring if it goes flying. Replace any malfuntioning part and reverse the order of disassembly to fix the problem. The batwing is force fit to a shaft that is precisely positioned. if there is any wear to the batwing or ratchet shaft, replace both items. you will have to remove the small tapered pin on the selector arm to effect repairs to this item.

Better Wiring Diagram (Still Not traced out on Bikes)

6 Volt - 12 Volt Conversion for 1967 Vespa Sprint

REF: http://www.allstyles-scooters.com/acatalog/info_74112KIT.html

The Mysterious 12V Wiring System

Found this online just now - finally a reference to a 12 volt wiring system for a Vespa VLB

Furthur Research is still needed - im slowly tracing out the wiring but there are a few mysteries to solve ;)

Vespa Wiring loom for CDI kit VBB/VBC Super/VLB Sprint

Details

Stock:

V1911A-CDI-2

Weight:

320 grams

Description

This wiring kit goes with our 12v VBB/VBC/VLB CDI (electronic ignition) kit using PX-style flywheel and Ducati-type CDI/coil unit, BUT only if you want to rewire the whole scooter. (The electronic ignition kit itself already includes a loom to add-on to your original wiring.) This kit includes:

• wiring loom
• modified horn/light switch
• 12v brake switch
• ignition switch with keys

You will have to include the key switch on your scooter. The loom is set up to place this near the choke (see photos), but you can extend it to put it on a front glovebox or elsewhere. The key will then be used to go from parking lights to full lights. With a key, no one can start your scooter either! Includes a wiring diagram.


REF: http://scootrs.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1465

Also a Forum: http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=8255

Clutch Cable Replacement - From Scooter Help Website

Replacing Cables General Vespa Clutch Cables - Non P Series Vespa Gear Cables - Non P Series Front Brake Cable Rear Brake Cable Lambretta Throttle Cable Speedometer Cable Lambretta Choke Cable Vespa Choke Cable - Non P Series Resources Home

Gear/ throttle Cable Replacement This section shows a quick step by step of replacing cables on an older type (pre P-series) scooter. The first step is to remove the headlight unit with two small screws located at about 4 and 8 o'clock when looking at the headlight. The unit can then be hinged out from the bottom and lifted to release a top pin from the headset. The bulb holder can be disconnected by undoing the two metal clasps that attach it to the headlight. Remove the speedometer by undoing the center of three bolts when looking at the bottom of the headset. The speedo drive and speedo bulb will also have to be disconnected as you pull the speedometer clear. Once this is done you should see something similar to the picture below. This sections shows how to replace the inner and outer cables for the gear selector box/ throttle slide assuming that the cables are ready for the trash. I find it is easiest to simply remove the gear end of the twist grip to get the ends of the cables out at the headset end. Using a 10mm socket, remove the central bolt. Once the pulley is removed, save the spring washer and locating washer that remain on the twist grip end for the rebuild. Move the cables so that the little "top hat" ends to the outer cable disengage from their supports as shown above. Pull the cable inner out of the outer with a pair of pliers. Once it is out you can clip the head of the outer cable to get rid of the crimped metal end as this could get caught as you pull it through the frame. If you are just removing the inner cable then replace the top hat over the cable outer end, lubricate the new control cable inner with oil, and then thread the new inner in to the existing outer cable all the way until you see it at the selector box end. If you are also replacing the outer cable you can clip the head of the outer cable to get rid of the crimped metal end as this could get caught as you pull it through the frame as shown in the next few shots. Clean the end of the old cable outer and wrap in a spiral motion with a piece of electrical tape. This type of tape works well because you can stretch it to make it really tight. Take the new cable outer and place it face to face with the old and continue the wrap around it for about 3 inches. Repeat the process in the other direction (from the new to the old). Once this is secure it should look like the picture above. At this point a helper is really handy. One person holds the cable at the headset straight up in the air. At the other end you pull the cable slowly through the frame as person number 2 feeds it in. It should slide right through and poke out the proper hole near the engine. The red arrow above shows the old cable outer and the green is the new cable outer. Carefully unwrap the tape from the cables and move on to the next step of threading the inner cable. Thread both inner cables with the cable top hats in place and set the hats in the support in the headset. Then carefully fit the end nipples in to the pulley in the same direction as they were removed. Refit the dished washer and then the locating washer, and make sure the small hole in the pulley engages with the peg on the locating washer. Refit the pulley and tighten the 10mm nut. Place the twist grip in the neutral position and then move down to the selector box end of the cables. I've switched the model of the bike in the photos but the idea is the same. At the bottom end thread the cable inner around the selector wheel, through the nipple at the end, and then pull it tight. When you pull it make sure the twist grip doesn't move from the neutral position, and be sure the bike is also in neutral at the motor end. Make sure the cable outer is weal seated in the adjuster and that the threaded adjuster is about 1/2 way out so you can adjust it in either direction if needed. Using a 7mm wrench for the nipple bolt and an 8mm wrench to stop the nipple from turning, tighten the nipple down. It is helpful to have a helper still pulling on the cable to keep it tight. Do the same thing for the other cable and then wiggle the twist grip without actually engaging gears. There should be about an 1/8" of movement. If there is too much movement, equally back out both the adjusters at the selector box. If there is too little, turn them both in enough to get the wiggle.  Note: An alternative to this method to replacing outer cables is to get an extra long control cable from a bicycle dealer (the type used on tandem bikes). Thread it through the new outer cable first so that the nipple is tight against the outer cable end. Then thread the inner in to the old outer cable still in the bike. This will get you the same result as taping the two outers together as shown above. From here, go to the selector box end and place a gear nipple on the inner cable. Now you can pull the old cable outer and the new cable outer will replace it. Once the new cable is in position, remove the nipple and the tandem inner.

Clutch Cables Forum - may pertain later

	Sat Jul 26, 2008 3:28 pm Hi everyone, so the first few weeks of owning this little beast have been amazing but not trouble free. First a broken cable for downshifts from 4-3-2-1 so I was stuck in 4th gear, thankfully very close to home. Took it to the shop and since I negotiated a 6 month warranty they fixed it. Second my front brake was almost non-existent and every time I shifted into first gear the horn gave it a little "beeep". Highly embarassing but OK The shop fixed the two issues as well. Third, last night while riding I noticed it was hard to shift through gears so I called the shop and they told me to adjust the clutch cable by the engine but when I looked at the cable by the handle I realized that I am on my last two threads. I will take it back to the shop so that they replace the cable but I'm worried that it will happen again. It's puzzling because I never had an issue with the clutch cable on my 1978 P125X. Is this a common issue and is there a permanent cure? Thanks and I love reading this forum!

	Sat Jul 26, 2008 5:49 pm if your cable is wearing up by the lever it is either that is has no lube or never been lubed, and or the adjuster has a burr it it and is wear/cutting the cable. ensure the cable is not run to create over binding it should have enough to be flexible from the lever down the the body. no tension. when you get the new cable a little squirt once a month of some white silicone grease at the barrell going into the lever should help for premature wear.

	Sat Jul 26, 2008 7:21 pm Hi Mate, It not a common issue Could be crap cables or your adjustment is way to tight at the adjustment screw? This happens when not enough tension is taken from the clutch arm nipple (Your first step of installing a clutch cable). When you replace your cable make sure to grease the whole cable with white lithium grease (Panef) Or better. Make sure you a getting good cables too there is a lot of shite on the market. Your clutch cable should have a fat nipple or nipple insert on it. Keep away from crap cables. I have been using bicycle cables for clutch, gears for years. *Be sure it's routed correctly (Nipple sitting flush in your lever) Also check for the two wave washers that fit either side of your lever. If you are in the US or Canada i can call you and talk you through it 10 mins or less and done Cheers

Sat Jul 26, 2008 8:20 pm Replace both the inner and outer cable. Unlike the throttle and shift cables (they have a separate nipple that the outer cable's metal bushing fits into), the clutch is comprised only of the outer's metal bushing that presses against the metal in the headset. Eventually that bushing compresses (especially if the clutch adjustment is too tight) and will start to split. That will rub the inner cable and cause it to fail prematurely. HTHs \osc